For all the struggles fashion faced in 2020—closed stores, canceled orders, shuttered businesses—what we’ll remember is the industry’s resilience. It was inspiring to see designers pivot and persevere through it all, and a frequent reminder that nothing (not even a pandemic!) can hamper creativity. Still, at a certain point, you just want fashion to be fun again—to talk about clothes without also talking about the vaccine, and feel excited about getting dressed without the stagnant undercurrent of anxiety.
Many designers are predicting a return to fun and exuberance as soon as this summer, when the sun has lifted our moods and outdoor gatherings have resumed. The general consensus is that we’ll dress exuberantly too, with comparisons to the postwar feeling of the 1920s. Nicky Zimmermann’s new collection will arrive toward the end of the season (for us, at least; in her native Australia, it will be early spring), and you can’t help but picture the jewel-encrusted minidresses, gowns trimmed with confetti ribbons, and psychedelic comet prints anywhere but a party. On a call from Sydney, Zimmermann said she was inspired by Countdown, the Australian music program that aired in the ’70s and ’80s. At the time, it was her introduction to world-famous musicians, from Blondie to ABBA and the Stooges. She remembers the show feeling like an escape, a rare glimpse into the outside world; of course, the fashion was hugely inspirational too.
The ’70s episodes stuck with her most. In this collection she mixed notes of the decade—flares, bohemian tunics, groovy suits—with her own signatures, like Victorian necklines and puffed mutton sleeves. Fans of Zimmermann’s party dresses will have their pick of familiar, sexy ruffled minis, tweaked with exaggerated collars or pussy bows. The opening number was trimmed with pink crystals too, a happily over-the-top touch. This is the time for clothes that spark joy, particularly after seeing so much pared-back, serious fashion in 2020.
Still, some of the more compelling pieces were a bit simpler. The pants suits felt like a departure for the brand, such as a candy pink one styled with a striped turtleneck and platforms. If it seems like Zimmermann wasn’t at all influenced by the realities of the pandemic, her first-ever jeans mirror the global shift toward casual, everyday clothes. She challenged herself to offer denim you can’t easily find elsewhere, skipping trendy washes or silhouettes in favor of sleek, dark-rinse flares with pin tucking and patent leather details. Her favorite look was also among the most wearable: a hip-length floral tunic and skinny boot-cut jeans.
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