When Jessica Jung signs on for a Zoom preview of the fall 2021 We11done collection, she’s wearing a voluminous full skirt and oversized sweatshirt. The silhouette, slouchily casual and playful, is how the designer dresses everyday. The new lineup is cut in Jung’s image, with full circle skirts, studded knits, and lug-soled mega boots. “When I first met Jessica, she was wearing a Junya Watanabe collar with studs out to here,” her colleague Youngjoon Kim says, making the distance of about eight inches between her forefinger and her thumb. It has taken a couple of seasons but We11done is figuring out what it does best: itself. No more external references; Jung is now looking inwards toward her own obsessions.
Plumbing personal style for inspiration is well-trod territory in fashion—just look at Comme des Garçons and Prada. What makes Jung’s ideas hold their own is that she is a consummate shopper, willing to try out new things without abandoning her signature shape. With the help of stylist Katie Grand, who in turn enlisted an A-list parade of models for this lookbook, this offering has a new depth of ideas without losing its usual gentle oddness. There are strange faux fur collars, belts, and shoes; clunky, sometimes bulky styling tricks; and printed and embroidered denim pieces. Weird, yes, but ultimately wearable by shoppers who are figuring out their own personal tastes. Jung and her brand are good touchstones.