Joking apart, my brain feels like a grab-bag of impressions and Zoom conversations with designers. Some of the things that stuck in there came from Dries Van Noten and Erdem, whose filmed performances thoroughly succeeded in a) showing clothes in motion, in detail and b) channeling some of the unspeakable emotions we’re experiencing right now. Both involved dancers, but directed in ways that didn’t make them seem like a costumed add-on, because the designers have had long standing relationships with contemporary dance companies. So does Saul Nash, to the extent that he’s a designer and choreographer rolled into one beautiful force for good. If you haven’t seen his film Twist, do. It’s one of those things that will make you remember exactly when you saw it.
All of that’s so much more far-reaching, enriching, and replayable than what used to be possible during the mad speed-chase from runway to runway, where clothes are basically only ever seen front-on, and top-to-toe, and nobody gets to linger on the make or the meaning of anything, much. Moving on without a single regretful glance back at ye olde runway system, Jonathan Anderson’s been foremost in mastering the new multi-platform era of communication. He’s brilliant at opening intellectual wormholes through his collaborations with contemporary artists, while simultaneously making things look fun and colorful (as well as posting talk-throughs of his processes). I really appreciated his introduction to the ceramicists Magdalene Odundo and Shawanda Corbett through his JW Anderson poster-lookbook made with Juergen Teller: “artists you should know about,” as he put it. And guess what—there were blankets, too! Seriously collectible art collabs for sure, but also Anderson’s canny multipurpose answer to the home-fashion-comfort thing; put it on your wall, throw it on your bed, wrap yourself in it as you stay up all night on your computer.
Some of us are going to be attracted to clothes that are purposefully designed for daily use in this new way of living in the 2020s. Nicolas Ghesquière’s LV looked like that to me—essentially an alignment of big outdoor jackets and really fancy sweater-dressing. When Lutz Huelle talked to Steff Yotka about cutting off all the waistbands in his collection (and how delighted she was to hear it!) it rang the same bell. The conversation I had with Petar Petrov around this subject was inspiring, about nuances of proportions, feeling good in your skin, and ready for whatever.