I’m a bit of an introvert and like to work on my own things. I think because of this long relationship with Raf and because of that very specific entry point, it gives us a lot of trust in each other and a lot of respect. That allows us to quickly zero in on things, make decisions, and navigate what his objectives are and what Mrs. Prada’s objectives are. That definitely does come through. The first time we collaborated together for Prada, Raf went and played a number of my works for Mrs. Prada, and then she fed back on what she liked and didn’t out of my catalog. That helped us to find the focus for the first collaboration.
What information did they give you as this collection was being developed?
For this collection, there was a lot of talk about weird ’70s Italian sexual, sensual movies: “How did they sound? How could we grab that without sounding too kitsch? Something powerful without being vulgar?”
I think you can hear and feel that in the music and you can see it in the collection: It’s beautiful and sensual and the strength of the woman comes through in the middle part and then there is a switch and it’s much more powerful and, you know, more sexual, more playful. Those were all things that you feel in the end, I think, and how it all ties together.
You accomplished what many thought was not possible, which is models dancing at a Prada show.
Totally—and it makes sense. You see the individuality and the kind of expression that the men had at the menswear show and then the playfulness and sensuality of the women, like they were in a nightclub or hanging out just being free. It was absolutely, absolutely beautiful.
How would you describe Raf’s musical taste versus Mrs. Prada’s?
Raf is extremely minimalistic and monotone and loves things that just don’t change and just kind of suck you in, on a very hypnotic level, which is probably why he and I get along so well. I think Mrs. Prada—I haven’t had a direct conversation with her [about it]—but I’ve sensed that there’s a little bit more of a classical structure. She likes things that kind of grab you, maybe a little bit more literal, and likes to have more changes as things develop. You can hear that in all the pieces, but especially the last two [for the fall 2021 men’s and women’s shows]. You can feel that there are two moments in each show: It builds, and then has a beginning, a middle, and an end.