Tell us about a favorite item you’ve made?
The light-brown, two-piece suit, including a leather harness waistcoat, knee-cut tailored suit trousers and black leather belt. It’s the perfect balance of leather, sex, skin and tailoring.
Who would you most love to dress?
Roxane Gay, Christine and the Queens, my dear friend and illustrator Edith Hammar—the list goes on!
Anchovi by Kwun Hyuk Kim, Seoul, South Korea
The 27-year-old, who has a knack for referencing both his youth and modern teen culture, creates tongue-in-cheek looks that play with experimental (and delightful) proportions and fabrics, while blurring the lines of gender norms.
What is the goal behind your genderless designs?
It’s to bring beautiful childhood memories to the surface by mixing up styles that would remind people of their younger days, but done in a humorous way. There should be no gender in clothing—wearing clothes should be all about expressing yourself however you want. The advantage [of making genderless clothing] is that we make clothes that have the potential to attract more people, regardless of gender, but it means that the fit can be limited in terms of size.
Tell us about a favorite piece you’ve made
I like the changpao shirt from spring 2021. It can be styled casually for any gender.”
Luis De Javier, London, UK
The 24-year-old’s gender-defying clothes speak to female allyship, queer empowerment, and sex. Having made his London Fashion Week debut in 2020, the Westminster graduate’s spring 2021 collection is brimming with rich obscure corsetry, alluring leather accessories and overzealous shoulder pads.
What is the message behind your designs?
[I want to create a] link between my past life in Spain and my life in London now. I want my work to be both a challenge and a celebration — of queerness, of freedom, of sex, of aspiration. I named my spring 2021 collection Madre, Hermana, Amiga in celebration and recognition of the allyship of women. Clothing should not have a gender; clothing should not alienate or differentiate. Consumers should start expressing themselves without fear of repercussions or judgement.
Which collaborators have been fundamental to making your collection?
My friend and creative director Betsy Johnson. She is a core part of the brand and it’s incredible sharing this journey with her.