In a pre-pandemic world, Maisie Wilen would celebrate her fourth collection with a New York Fashion Week show, but in 2021, virtual experiences are the norm. As such, Wilen decided to pay homage to the runway in a special video created to showcase her fall lineup. In the clip, models make their way down a liquid “catwalk” as a soundtrack of murmurs plays in the background mimicking an IRL audience’s reactions and the communal aspects of fashion month. The visuals, which see the cast walk on water in an array of prints, feel dreamlike, but the designer’s starting point was rooted in the current reality. “I was focused on comfort and adaptation,” said Wilen. “I was both responding to and rebuking the overwhelming call for comfort clothing within the industry. I’m known for going-out looks, and I was thinking, ‘What would be as special as a party look?’ while still responding to where my customer is today—outfits that can convert between quarantine and post-quarantine life.”
Playing with those ideas meant juxtaposing formal and casual elements. Neon fabrics from retro windbreakers were repurposed into blazer and skirt sets ideal for the office or Zoom meetings. Reflective motocross-inspired pieces nodded to ’80s-style sportswear, while skintight catsuits and leggings kept body consciousness top of mind. Each piece was covered in the punchy prints that have become Wilen’s signature. The result of hours spent tweaking details in Photoshop and Illustrator, they typically range from geometric to psychedelic. This go-round, Wilens took a different approach, weaving together multiple fabrics to form patchwork patterns. In a section she dubbed “non-fiction,” collection details were scribbled across T-shirts and tops alongside QR codes. “It’s about the contrast of natural and tech imagery,” explained Wilen. “Scan the code on the garment, and it takes you to the product page on our website. They’re meant to be visually appealing and simultaneously snap the wearer back to reality.”
In brighter times, Wilen’s vision for fall would be ideal for hopping from one club to the next, but in 2021 the clothes provide a bit of escapism. It’s easy to imagine dancing the night away in one of her crushed velvet crop tops or trippy lava-print trousers. While pieces like the jacquard overcoats and sporty suits seem destined for a Bella Hadid paparazzi stroll or related outdoor activity, the majority could be enjoyed at home. Tangerine tie-dye sweatpants and zigzag-covered leggings would undoubtedly break the monotony of the work-from-home wardrobe.
As a late-stage millennial or first-wave member of Generation-Z, depending on your chart, Wilen is uniquely primed to address young consumers’ wants. Those who grew up with Delia’s catalogs will feel a touch of nostalgia looking at her keyhole tops and the pastel-meets-neon color combinations that comprise the season’s palette. Even if you didn’t, the designs are sure to thrive online, where Instagram and TikTok updates are now the primary reasons to dress up. As forward-thinking as Wilen’s fashions are, she’s eager to ensure her customers feel exceptional no matter what the future holds. “[Our] customers gravitate to us for their special occasions,” she says. “They seem to be drawn to our dresses for their important moments, so I want to maintain that specialness, even if they just want to take a nice picture at home.”
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