“More with less” was Greg Lauren’s ethos for fall. You could say his work has always been about that—he’s repurposed vintage textiles, quilts, and army tents since he launched his line in 2011—but this collection pushed the concept further. He challenged himself and his team to become newly resourceful, using only fabric they had in stock (not just for the lookbook, either; the full production will be cut with existing materials). That included everything from Indian kantha quilts to striped blankets, Italian wool suiting, and heaps of scraps they’d collected over the years.
Last fall’s introduction of GL Scrapwork, a line of clothes and home goods made from cutting room scraps that normally got thrown out, inspired an even more ambitious project: GL Stitchwork, made from the scraps of those scraps, the tiny bits of fabric even a sustainability-obsessed designer might brush into the bin. Lauren explained that his team assembled the scraps and quilted over them with narrow, grid-like stitches to create the Stitchwork yardage. The flight suit in look two, for instance, was quilted with dozens of pieces of fabric in varying shades of camel and cream.
It’s a time-intensive, artisanal process that can’t be mass-produced, and Lauren’s commitment to using fabric he owns means the Stitchwork pieces will be in short supply. The “Stitchwork 3N1 parka” was even more meticulous, and can be transformed into three garments: In addition to the full-length version, the bottom zips off to create a shorter jacket, and those panels can be zipped and cinched into two messenger bags. It pushed the “more with less” idea beyond fabrics and into functionality: What if your jacket could be more than a jacket?
Those items were among Lauren’s more obvious experiments in sustainability—“obvious” in that they looked sustainable and upcycled, with raw edges and a crafty, one-of-a-kind feel. Lauren was just as enthusiastic about his subtler items, though, like a hoodie constructed with leftover herringbone wool; styled with billowing tweed cargoes, it was Lauren’s version of a new suit. Even subtler were the pieces tinted with natural dyes, like a corduroy puffer dipped in pomegranate, tannin, and iron. The cocktail created faded shades of taupe and sage, the same “lived-in” look Lauren is known for without the environmental impact of chemical dyes.