For today’s Chanel presentation, artistic director Virginie Viard revived the last days of disco—and the Left Bank nightclub Chez Castel, the show’s venue—on her own terms. Inside the legendary hotspot (where Mick Jagger, Françoise Hardy, and Amanda Lear were once frequent guests), models forewent silky dresses and flared jumpsuits for Norwegian sweaters, sleek tweed separates and oversized après ski coats.
“I love contrasts, so for the more voluminous winter pieces, I wanted a small space. I don’t know if this is because of the times we live in, but I wanted something warm, lively,” explained Viard in the show notes. She also said that she was inspired by the fashion shows that Karl Lagerfeld held decades ago, where the girls would dress themselves and do their own makeup. “The models can get changed, dressed and undressed, do their makeup together, and have fun like a girls night in,” she continued, speaking to the overall vibe. This translated into beauty with chic, yet real world-wearable lived-in black eyeliner and loose lengths accented by blunt fringe and gleaming headbands.
To create the sooty eyes, makeup artist Lucia Pica rimmed the upper and lower lashes with intense black pigment, blending out a soft, winged shaped at the outer corners. The gritty gazes were offset by natural complexions and dewy lips. Hairstylist Damien Boissinot was behind the array of hair looks, many of which were characterized by center-parted tresses of all textures and ultra-blunt, brow-skimming curtain bangs. A few, such as Dutch model Rianne Van Rompaey, wore delicate metallic, crystal fringed headbands that cascaded down to the chest. Offering up a slew of glamorous, ’70s-inspired touches, there was a scene-stealing beauty strategy for every kind of night animal. So consider Chanel’s above-the-neck cues a welcome message for these times: The beat goes on.